CHAIN REACTION

We live in the 21st Century, an era where it’s fair to say that any boundaries that were ever placed on fashion have officially broken down and are non-existent. With the rise of more innovative and unorthodox ideas filtering into the fashion industry, the likes of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and Alexander Wang have seized this opportunity and incorporated an element into their SS16 collections that scream “NONCONFORMIST” to any passerby – chains!

Dating back to the 16th Century, sketches of the first steel chain penned by Leonardo da Vinci were found however there weren’t brought into fruition until the 19^th Century where the manufacturing of steel were made possible by new technologies. Initially created for pulling, hanging, securing and transmitting power, it’s clear to see that chains have also offered its utility in another industry altogether – fashion.

The use of chains in fashion can be dated back to the 1970’s with the evolution of Punk fashion subculture. Characterized hugely by views that went against the norms of society, the punk culture was highly associated with loud music, unruly and unkempt hairstyles and a total rebellion against fashion as it was known. Tshirts with vulgar and offensive slogans were sprawled across the chest, tattoos, brothel creepers were all a part of the look. Known influential designers such as Vivienne Westwood pioneered the movement. For an added aesthetic affect, everyday items such as safety pins, bin-liners razor blades and chains were added to outfits.

After saying goodbye to Balenciaga early last year, Alexander Wang took time to invest and nurture his own name label. It wasn’t long before he gave birth to a “typical Wang” style SS16 collection that

draws from subculture. With the lack of form and structure to his ready-to-wear collection, Wang omits an edgy, carefree aura. Encapsulating a military aesthetic, with hues of green, black, navy, white and red, the collection was a whirlwind of oversized, shredded and distressed skirts and trousers. Bound to catch the eye of any

onlooker were the pieces of clothing that had been disassembled and replaced with thick metal chains. Tiny- cropped tank tops –some made of leather had their conventional thin straps removed and taking their place, were bold silver chains resting on the shoulders of the models with attitude. Earrings and messenger bags also had the fair share of revamp too further adding to the urban, almost grungy aesthetic. The collection has clearly rejected the luxurious, more lavish style for a more defined and evasive attitude. “There’s no high concept. There’s no singular theme. It’s about being an individual but also about being part of a tribe. I wanted to think about clothes that excited me and let the canvas and the girls bring them to life” –Alexander Wang.

Susan Burton for Alexander McQueen was also in the same spirit as Alexander McQueen with the use of chains but with a completely different twist. Delving into and evoking a sense of English history, Burton intelligently incorporates this into her SS16 collection. Burton sites that her inspiration was taken from the Huguenots – members of the French Protestant Church who, in order to avoid persecution, evacuated their home and fled to the British Isles. Alongside their luggage, they brought with them their dexterity, as a large number of hem were craftsmen and artisans. They were known for their intricate florals, frock coats and pieces delicately put together. Continuing this, Burton elaborates more on these traditions but adds her own juxtaposition with the fashion accessory of the moment – chains! It’s beautiful to see how in contrast to Wang’s avant-garde use of the element, Burton maintained a serene almost poetic aura, echoing the era of Jane Eyre and her times at Thornfield Hall.

The use of chains in fashion is highly unlikely to be an accidental occurrence as it’s not a conventional item to be used on clothing. This could therefore connote something much deeper than what is seen on the surface.